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Travel
A Jonathon Hawes Guide to Scotland
Like so many others, I have roots in Scotland—my last name, Hawes, tracing back to those rugged, misty highlands where whisky flows like water and the air carries the scent of peat and heather. Scotland is a place of deep history, wild landscapes, and an understated luxury that I can’t get enough of. Whether you’re staying in a grand hotel or a charming inn, sipping whisky by a roaring fire or indulging in the best shortbread of your life, Scotland just knows how to do things right. So, pack your cashmere sweaters, bring a sturdy umbrella (because obviously), and let’s explore Scotland in style.
Where to Stay: The 5 Best Hotels & Inns

Scotland’s hospitality is a mix of grand old-world luxury and the kind of intimate inns where you half-expect to stumble into a ghost or a Duke.

  1. The Fife Arms (Braemar) – An art-filled, gloriously over-the-top boutique hotel in the heart of the Cairngorms, where taxidermy meets Picasso and tartan reigns supreme.
  2. The Balmoral (Edinburgh) – The ultimate city luxury, this Rocco Forte classic has hosted royalty and celebrities. A suite here feels like living in a Scottish novel, and the afternoon tea? Divine.
  3. Glenapp Castle (Ayrshire) – A proper Scottish castle with Michelin-starred dining and a level of grandeur that makes you wonder if you should start wearing tiaras casually.
  4. The Torridon (Wester Ross) – Remote, rugged, and ridiculously chic. Think tweed armchairs, fireplaces, and a whisky selection that could impress even the snobbiest of connoisseurs.
  5. The Witchery by the Castle (Edinburgh) – Possibly the most decadent boutique hotel in Scotland. Gothic, candlelit, and unashamedly dramatic. If Dracula needed a weekend getaway, this would be it.
Where to Eat: 5 Must-Visit Restaurants

Scotland has moved far beyond haggis (though, done right, haggis is delicious, trust me). The country’s food scene is buzzing with Michelin stars, local seafood, and comforting, fireside fare.

  1. Restaurant Andrew Fairlie (Gleneagles, Perthshire) – Scotland’s only two-Michelin-star restaurant, where the tasting menu is a slow, indulgent love letter to Scottish ingredients.
  2. The Kitchin (Edinburgh) – Run by Tom Kitchin, this is where fine dining meets rugged, Highland-inspired cooking. If you want a true “from nature to plate” experience, this is it.
  3. Cail Bruich (Glasgow) – A modern take on Scottish cuisine with an effortlessly cool, Michelin-starred touch.
  4. Loch Bay (Isle of Skye) – The freshest seafood you’ll ever eat, with the most incredible views over the loch.
  5. The Three Chimneys (Isle of Skye) – Another Skye classic, and for good reason. It’s warm, inviting, and the food is so good you’ll consider moving to the island permanently.
5 Bakeries That Will Ruin You for Life

Scottish baking is, frankly, unfair. Between the shortbread, the scones, and the endless variations of buttery, flaky perfection, it’s a dangerous place for self-control.

  1. Twelve Triangles (Edinburgh) – The best sourdough in Scotland. Fight me.
  2. Wild Hearth Bakery (Comrie, Perthshire) – A dreamy, rustic bakery that specializes in wood-fired bread.
  3. Bakery by Zique (Glasgow) – Flaky pastries, homemade jams, and scones that will make you weep with joy.
  4. Shorty’s (Aberfeldy) – The kind of old-school bakery where everything tastes like a grandmother made it with love (because one probably did).
  5. The Highland Bakehouse (Skye) – If you ever wanted to eat a perfect croissant in the most scenic place on earth, here’s your chance.
5 Pubs Worth Stumbling Into

A Scottish pub is a thing of beauty: roaring fires, cozy nooks, and whisky lists longer than some novels.

  1. The Devil’s Advocate (Edinburgh) – A ridiculously cool whisky bar in a 16th-century building. Think exposed stone walls and over 300 whiskies.
  2. The Ship Inn (Elie, Fife) – A seaside pub where you can sip a pint while watching a game of actual beach cricket.
  3. The Drovers Inn (Loch Lomond) – Old, possibly haunted, and full of charm. A perfect stop after hiking in the Highlands.
  4. MacGregor’s Bar (Inverness) – Great live music, incredible whisky, and the perfect place to meet a friendly Scotsman who tells you he’s distantly related to Robert the Bruce.
  5. The Bow Bar (Edinburgh) – A tiny, old-school pub with one of the best whisky selections in the city. No nonsense, just good drinks.

Scotland is, in a word, magical. It’s elegant but rugged, historic but modern, and it has the kind of warmth that stays with you long after you leave. Whether you’re in a grand castle or a cozy pub, this country just gets it. And if you find yourself sipping whisky by a fire, wrapped in a tartan blanket, quietly Googling “buying property in the Highlands”… well, I won’t judge.

See below for my perfect seven day trip.

7-Day Scotland Itinerary

Day 1: Edinburgh Elegance

  • Check into The Balmoral or The Witchery by the Castle.
  • Explore Edinburgh Castle and stroll down the Royal Mile.
  • Lunch at The Kitchin.
  • Visit the National Museum of Scotland.
  • Sunset drinks at The Devil’s Advocate.
  • Dinner at The Witchery’s candlelit restaurant.

Day 2: Into the Highlands

  • Train or drive to Glencoe—one of the most stunning landscapes in Scotland.
  • Hike (or admire) the Three Sisters mountains.
  • Lunch at The Drovers Inn.
  • Check into The Fife Arms in Braemar.
  • Fireside whisky tasting in the hotel bar.

Day 3: Castles & Coasts

  • Drive to Inverness via Loch Ness (wave at Nessie).
  • Explore Urquhart Castle.
  • Lunch at MacGregor’s Bar.
  • Walk along the River Ness.
  • Overnight at The Torridon for peak countryside luxury.

Day 4: Isle of Skye Magic

  • Ferry to Skye.
  • Lunch at Loch Bay.
  • Hike the Fairy Pools.
  • Check into a cozy inn.
  • Dinner at The Three Chimneys.

Day 5: Whisky & History

  • Visit Talisker Distillery (because what’s a trip to Scotland without whisky?).
  • Ferry back to the mainland.
  • Visit Glenfinnan Viaduct (yes, the Harry Potter bridge).
  • Dinner at Cail Bruich in Glasgow.

Day 6: Glasgow Cool

  • Breakfast at Bakery by Zique.
  • Explore Kelvingrove Art Gallery.
  • Lunch at The Ubiquitous Chip.
  • Vintage shopping in the West End.
  • Drinks at The Bow Bar in Edinburgh.

Day 7: Slow & Luxurious Goodbye

  • Check out of your hotel (with deep sadness).
  • Final pastries from Twelve Triangles.
  • One last scenic walk up Arthur’s Seat.
  • Afternoon tea at The Balmoral.
  • Depart, already planning your return.