Skip to content
ruslan-bardash-WMSvsWzhM0g-unsplash
Travel
A Jonathon Hawes Guide to Hong Kong
Hong Kong is pure magic. It’s fast, it’s loud, it’s indulgent, and yet, somehow, it always feels like home. Whether you’re sipping milk tea in a tiny cha chaan teng or watching the skyline light up from a rooftop bar, you just know—this city gets it. And if you leave already planning your next trip? Same.

Hong Kong is electric. It’s a city that doesn’t just move—it hums. A place where neon signs glow over dimly lit noodle shops, where Michelin-starred restaurants and no-frills dumpling spots sit side by side, and where luxury feels effortless. It’s a city that somehow balances tradition and innovation, elegance and chaos, high-end dining and the best $3 bowl of wonton soup you’ll ever have.

Triet loves Hong Kong (and, temporarily, the Dutch cheese obsession takes a back seat to roast goose and silky milk tea). And honestly? I get it. There’s just something about this place—maybe it’s the food, maybe it’s the skyline, maybe it’s the fact that Hong Kong-style French toast is arguably one of the greatest things ever invented. Whatever it is, it keeps calling you back.

So, if you’re heading to Hong Kong and want to do it right—without wasting a single meal—here’s how.

Where to Stay: The 5 Best Hotels

Hong Kong’s hotels are as dramatic as its skyline. Whether you want sleek modern luxury or old-world elegance, this city has it all.

  1. The Upper House (Admiralty) – Quiet, modern, and effortlessly cool. The service? Impeccable. The views? Even better. It feels like a private sanctuary in the middle of the city.
  2. Rosewood Hong Kong (Tsim Sha Tsui) – Grand, glamorous, and filled with jaw-dropping art. If you want over-the-top luxury, this is the place.
  3. The Peninsula (Tsim Sha Tsui) – The Grande Dame of Hong Kong hotels. Afternoon tea in the lobby is practically a rite of passage.
  4. Mandarin Oriental (Central) – A classic, but still impossibly chic. If you love old-school service with a modern touch, you’ll love it here.
  5. The Murray (Central) – A sleek, architectural dream with stunning design and lush greenery. Perfect for a quieter stay while still being in the heart of it all.
Where to Eat: 5 Must-Visit Restaurants

Hong Kong is a food city—there’s no other way to put it. Every meal here has the potential to be the best thing you’ve ever eaten.

  1. Lung King Heen (Four Seasons Hotel) – The world’s first three-Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant. Order the crispy suckling pig and thank me later.
  2. Rùn (St. Regis Hong Kong) – Modern Cantonese dining done with flair. The dim sum tasting menu is phenomenal.
  3. The Chairman – No pretentious frills, just simple, ingredient-driven Cantonese food at its absolute best. The flower crab is legendary.
  4. Caprice (Four Seasons Hotel) – A French restaurant, yes, but this three-Michelin-starred spot sources some of the best European ingredients you’ll find in Asia.
  5. Duddell’s – Art, dim sum, and an impossibly stylish crowd. It’s the perfect place for a long, leisurely lunch.
Where to Find the Best Dumplings

Dumplings in Hong Kong? Non-negotiable. Here’s where to go:

  • Mak’s Noodle (Central & other locations) – The classic. Their wonton noodle soup is the stuff of legend.
  • Tim Ho Wan (Sham Shui Po & other locations) – The world’s cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant. The baked BBQ pork buns alone are worth the trip.
  • Ding Dim 1968 (Central) – A hidden gem with incredible shrimp dumplings (har gow).
  • DimDimSum (Mong Kok & Wan Chai) – A casual, local favorite that’s as good as the big names.
  • Samsen (Wan Chai) – Not dumplings exactly, but their Thai-style wonton noodles are outstanding.
Best Street Food to Try

Hong Kong’s street food is dangerous—one bite, and you’ll suddenly find yourself holding five skewers, a stuffed pineapple bun, and an egg waffle. But that’s just how it goes.

  • Curry Fish Balls – Spicy, bouncy, and iconic.
  • Egg Waffles (Gai Daan Jai) – Crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside. A classic.
  • Cheung Fun (Rice Noodle Rolls) – Silky, slippery, and drenched in sweet soy sauce.
  • Stinky Tofu – Funky, crispy, and so Hong Kong.
  • Hong Kong-Style French Toast – Thick, buttery, and drenched in condensed milk. This is not optional.
  • For the best Hong Kong-style French toast, head to Australia Dairy Company (Jordan) or Kam Wah Café (Mong Kok)—both have perfected this dish to absolute perfection.
Best Night Markets for Food
  • Temple Street Night Market (Yau Ma Tei) – A Hong Kong classic. Grab some seafood and enjoy the chaos.
  • Ladies’ Market (Mong Kok) – Famous for shopping, but the street food is equally good.
  • Tai Po Market (New Territories) – Less touristy, more authentic, and packed with local food stalls.

5 Best Bakeries for Hong Kong Pastries

  • Tai Cheong Bakery (Central & other locations) – Egg tart royalty.
  • Bakehouse (Wan Chai & other locations) – Artisanal bread, but make it Hong Kong.
  • Hoover Cake Shop (Kowloon City) – Old-school and utterly charming.
  • Kam Fung Café (Wan Chai) – The pineapple buns here are divine.
  • Happy Cake Shop (Wan Chai) – Traditional, no-frills, and utterly nostalgic.

5 Best Pubs & Bars for a Drink (or Three)

  • Ozone (The Ritz-Carlton, Kowloon) – The highest bar in the world. It’s ridiculous and I love it.
  • The Old Man (Central) – Ernest Hemingway-inspired and effortlessly cool.
  • Quinary (Central) – Molecular cocktails that actually taste good.
  • Foxglove (Central) – A hidden speakeasy disguised as an umbrella shop.
  • The Pontiac (Central) – Fun, unpretentious, and full of energy.
5-Day Hong Kong Itinerary

Day 1: Welcome to the City

  • Check into The Upper House or Rosewood Hong Kong.
  • Walk along Victoria Harbour, then head to Lung King Heen for dinner.
  • Cocktails at Ozone, because why not start at the top?

Day 2: Classic Hong Kong

  • Dim sum at Tim Ho Wan (get the BBQ pork buns).
  • Take the Peak Tram for that iconic view.
  • Explore Central’s hidden alleys, then dinner at The Chairman.

Day 3: Markets & Street Food

  • Breakfast at Australia Dairy Company (French toast, obviously).
  • Visit the Ladies’ Market, then snack your way through Temple Street Night Market at night.

Day 4: A Touch of Luxury

  • Morning pastries at Bakehouse.
  • A museum stop at M+ or Tai Kwun.
  • Lunch at Caprice, followed by a shopping spree.
  • Pre-dinner drinks at The Old Man, then dinner at Rùn.

Day 5: The Farewell Feast

  • A final breakfast of egg tarts at Tai Cheong Bakery.
  • A ferry ride to Lantau Island.

One last incredible meal before heading to the airport—because leaving on an empty stomach would be criminal.