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Travel
A Jonathon Hawes Guide to San Francisco
San Francisco is a city of contrasts—it’s old and new, refined and rough around the edges, glamorous but never too polished. You can spend your day hiking through the redwoods and your night sipping Champagne at a Michelin-starred restaurant. That’s what makes it so special. And if you leave already planning your next visit? Then you did it right.

San Francisco has always been one of those cities that feels like a world of its own—historic yet futuristic, polished yet gritty, eternally foggy yet somehow always golden. It’s a place where old-money Nob Hill mansions sit next to counterculture bookstores, where the best sourdough of your life comes from a shop older than the Golden Gate Bridge, and where you can have Michelin-starred omakase for dinner and an In-N-Out burger at midnight—both equally fabulous in their own way.

I’ve been lucky enough to visit San Francisco many times, and every single trip feels like I’m peeling back another layer. The food? Incredible. The shopping? Dangerous in the best way. The neighborhoods? A perfect mix of elegance and edge. Whether you’re walking through the misty streets of Nob Hill, sipping a cocktail at an old-school hotel bar, or getting lost in the back alleys of Chinatown, San Francisco is a city that never stops surprising you.

Let’s do it right.

Where to Stay: The Best Hotels in San Francisco

Classic Elegance

  1. The Fairmont San Francisco (Nob Hill)If these walls could talk. This hotel is pure San Francisco royalty—perched high on Nob Hill with skyline views, old-school glamour, and the iconic Tonga Room & Hurricane Bar (a must-visit for a kitschy, over-the-top cocktail experience).
  2. The Ritz-Carlton (Nob Hill) – A refined, timeless hotel that feels like it could be in Paris if not for the unbeatable views of San Francisco. Perfect for those who love impeccable service and understated luxury.

Cool & Contemporary

  1. The LINE SF (SoMa) – A fresh, design-forward hotel in a reimagined historic building, filled with local art, creative spaces, and an ultra-chic rooftop. Perfect if you like your luxury with a little more edge.
  2. LUMA Hotel (Mission Bay) – Modern, sleek, and a little under-the-radar (which makes it all the better). The rooftop lounge, Cavaña, is the place for sunset cocktails.

Boutique & Charming

  1. Hotel Drisco (Pacific Heights) – A hidden gem in one of SF’s most beautiful neighborhoods. Quiet, elegant, and feels like you’re staying in a friend’s (very fancy) townhouse.
  2. Palihotel San Francisco (Union Square) – A quirky, stylish boutique hotel with Parisian charm and a dose of Wes Anderson aesthetics. Ideal for those who want something unique.
Where to Eat: The Best Restaurants in San Francisco

San Francisco has one of the best food scenes in the world. From Michelin-starred institutions to hole-in-the-wall dumpling spots, you could eat here for weeks and never have the same meal twice.

The Classics

  1. Zuni Café (Hayes Valley) – If you eat one meal in San Francisco, make it the roast chicken at Zuni Café. It’s legendary, it’s life-changing, and it’s exactly the kind of effortless California dining experience that makes you want to move here.
  2. Tadich Grill (FiDi) – San Francisco’s oldest restaurant, famous for cioppino (a rich seafood stew) and impeccable service that feels like a throwback to another era.
  3. Swan Oyster Depot (Polk Street)No reservations, no frills—just the freshest oysters, Dungeness crab, and a counter-only experience that’s been an institution for over a century.

Michelin-Worthy Indulgence

  1. Benu (SoMa)Three Michelin stars, a mind-blowing mix of Asian flavors and fine dining finesse.
  2. Atelier Crenn (Cow Hollow) – Dominique Crenn’s two-Michelin-starred masterpiece, where the food feels like art and the experience is nothing short of magical.
  3. Quince (Jackson Square)Elegant, seasonal, and absolutely refined. The tasting menu is California cuisine at its finest.

Casual but Fabulous

  1. Cotogna (Jackson Square)Rustic, chic Italian with handmade pastas, a perfect wine list, and an atmosphere that’s buzzy but intimate.
  2. Mister Jiu’s (Chinatown) – A Michelin-starred modern take on Cantonese cuisine, housed in a gorgeous historic Chinatown building.
  3. Tartine Bakery (Mission District)Forget everything you think you know about bakeries. The morning buns, the croissants, the bread—Tartine is an experience.
  4. B Patisserie (Pacific Heights) – If the kouign-amann doesn’t change your life, I don’t know what will.
Where to Shop: San Francisco’s Best Shopping Districts

San Francisco’s shopping scene is as diverse as its neighborhoods. Whether you’re hunting for luxury, vintage, or indie boutiques, SF delivers.

  1. Union SquareThe classic. If you’re after high-end shopping, department stores, and designer labels, this is where you go.
  2. Hayes Valley – Chic, understated luxury. Home to independent boutiques, design-forward fashion, and some of the best home goods stores in the city.
  3. Fillmore Street (Pacific Heights)High-end but effortlessly cool, with beautiful boutiques, skincare shops, and luxury vintage finds.
  4. Valencia Street (Mission District)Quirky, indie, artsy, and filled with cool bookstores, vintage shops, and SF’s hip crowd.
  5. ChinatownThe best place for authentic tea shops, one-of-a-kind antiques, and hidden gems you won’t find anywhere else.

Things You Can’t Miss in San Francisco

San Francisco is a city that begs to be explored on foot. Here are the absolute must-do experiences.

  • Walk across the Golden Gate BridgeTouristy? Yes. Still magical? Absolutely.
  • Take a ferry to SausalitoAn easy escape across the bay with waterfront wine bars and ridiculously charming streets.
  • Ride a cable carBecause you have to. Bonus points if you hop off at Nob Hill for a martini at the Top of the Mark.
  • Explore ChinatownThe oldest Chinatown in North America, filled with incredible food, historic alleys, and some of the best dim sum in the country.
  • Visit Alcatraz at night – It’s eerie, it’s atmospheric, and it’s one of the coolest things you can do in SF.
  • Have cocktails at a historic bar – Try Tosca Cafe (dark, moody, and old-school Italian) or Smuggler’s Cove (an over-the-top tiki bar that’s an experience in itself).